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Negotiation9 min read

What to Ask the Seller to Fix After a Home Inspection

Ask the seller to fix safety hazards (electrical issues, gas leaks, structural problems), code violations, and any issues that affect insurability or mortgage approval. Do not ask the seller to fix cosmetic issues, minor maintenance items, or pre-existing conditions you observed before making your offer. The most successful repair requests include 3-5 specific items backed by contractor estimates, not a 20-item wish list. The goal of your repair request is not to get a perfect house. It is to ensure the home is safe, structurally sound, and insurable at the price you agreed to pay. Anything beyond that is a bonus. Here is exactly what to include, what to leave off, and how to structure the request for the best outcome.

Always Ask For: Safety Hazards

Safety hazards are the one category of repair that sellers almost always agree to address, because they have a legal obligation to disclose known safety issues to future buyers if you walk away. This gives you strong leverage. Electrical hazards: Double-tapped breakers ($150-$300 per breaker to fix), missing GFCI protection in kitchens and bathrooms ($150-$300 per outlet), exposed wiring or open junction boxes ($100-$400), and Federal Pacific or Zinsco panels ($2,000-$4,500 to replace). Gas leaks: Any detected gas leak at appliance connections, the meter, or gas piping must be repaired immediately. Cost is typically $150-$800 depending on location. Carbon monoxide risks: Cracked heat exchangers in furnaces ($500-$2,500 or full furnace replacement), backdrafting water heaters ($200-$600 to correct), and missing CO detectors ($30-$50 each). Fire hazards: Missing smoke detectors ($30-$50 each), improper dryer vent material (should be rigid metal, not flexible plastic, $100-$300 to replace), and missing fire stops in the garage ($200-$400). These items are inexpensive relative to the purchase price and directly affect occupant safety. No reasonable seller or listing agent will push back on a request to fix a gas leak or install smoke detectors.

Always Ask For: Issues That Affect Insurance or Financing

If an issue prevents you from obtaining homeowners insurance or causes your mortgage lender to reject the property, it must be resolved for the sale to close. This is not a negotiation preference; it is a deal requirement. Electrical panels: Federal Pacific, Zinsco, and some Pushmatic panels are blacklisted by major insurance carriers. Request replacement ($2,000-$4,500). Roof condition: Many insurers will not cover roofs older than 15-20 years or roofs with visible damage. If your insurance broker flags the roof, request a credit for replacement ($8,000-$15,000). Plumbing material: Polybutylene piping (gray plastic pipe used 1978-1995) is increasingly declined by insurers due to its failure rate. Complete replumb costs $4,000-$10,000 depending on home size. Wood-destroying insects: Active termite infestations must be treated before most lenders will fund the loan. Treatment costs $500-$2,500; structural repair for termite damage costs $1,000-$10,000+. Present your insurance broker's written statement alongside these requests. When the seller sees that the deal literally cannot close without the repair, they have every incentive to cooperate.

Strong Requests: Major Systems Nearing End of Life

Systems that are past their expected lifespan are strong negotiating points, even though they may still be functioning. The key is to present objective data about life expectancy and replacement costs. HVAC systems older than 15-20 years: Average replacement cost $5,000-$12,000. Note the system's age, any performance issues the inspector documented, and the expected remaining life. Water heaters older than 10-12 years: Average replacement cost $1,200-$3,000. Tank water heaters have a clear lifespan and are inexpensive enough that sellers often agree to replacement. Roofs with less than 5 years of remaining life: Even if the roof is not leaking today, a buyer should not have to replace it within the first few years of ownership. For these items, requesting a seller credit is more effective than asking the seller to replace them. A credit lets you choose your own contractor and the exact equipment specifications.

Reasonable Requests: Active Water Issues

Active leaks and water intrusion are reasonable repair requests because they cause progressive damage that worsens over time. The key word is "active." A past water stain that is dry and stable is a cosmetic issue. An active leak that is producing moisture is a defect. Active roof leaks: Even a small active leak can cause thousands of dollars in damage to insulation, framing, and drywall if left unaddressed. Request repair of the leak source ($300-$2,000 for a spot repair). Plumbing leaks: Active leaks under sinks, at supply line connections, or at the water heater should be repaired. Cost is typically $150-$500 per leak. Basement water intrusion: If the inspection was conducted during dry weather and the inspector still found evidence of active water entry, this is a significant issue. Request correction of the water source (grading, downspout extensions, waterproofing) at $500-$5,000 depending on scope.

What NOT to Ask the Seller to Fix

Including these items in your repair request weakens your credibility and often causes the seller to reject the entire request out of frustration: Cosmetic issues: Scuffed walls, outdated fixtures, scratched floors, stained carpets. These are visible during your showing and are priced into the home. Normal wear and tear: Caulking gaps, weatherstripping deterioration, minor paint peeling. Every home has these, and they are basic homeowner maintenance costing $20-$100 each. Pre-existing conditions you already knew about: If you saw the dated kitchen, the old carpet, or the cracked driveway before making your offer, you accepted those conditions when you submitted your bid. Asking for them to be fixed after the inspection is seen as bad faith. Items under $200: Loose doorknobs, dripping faucets, sticky windows. These are not worth the paper they are written on in a negotiation. Fix them yourself after closing. Upgrades disguised as repairs: Asking the seller to upgrade single-pane windows to double-pane, install a new dishwasher, or add a bathroom fan where one never existed. These are improvements, not repairs of defects.

How to Structure Your Repair Request for Maximum Success

The format of your request matters as much as the content. Here is the structure that experienced agents recommend: Start with context: "Following our home inspection conducted on [date] by [inspector name, license number], we are requesting the following repairs or credits based on the inspector's findings." List items in priority order with the most serious safety issues first. For each item, include the inspection report page reference, a one-sentence description of the finding, and the estimated repair cost. End with a clear ask: "We request a seller credit of $X at closing to address the items listed above" or "We request the seller complete the repairs listed above and provide paid receipts prior to closing." Attach supporting documentation: the relevant pages of the inspection report, any contractor estimates you have obtained, and any written statements from your insurance broker regarding insurability. Keep the total number of items to 3-7. Research from the National Association of Realtors shows that repair requests with fewer than 5 items have the highest acceptance rate.
Key Takeaways
  • Always request fixes for safety hazards, code violations, and insurance-blocking issues. These have the highest acceptance rate.
  • Limit your repair request to 3-7 items. Requests with fewer items are more likely to be accepted.
  • Back every request with a specific cost estimate or contractor quote. Vague requests get vague responses.
  • Do not include cosmetic issues, normal wear, or pre-existing conditions you saw before making your offer.
  • Seller credits are usually better than seller-completed repairs because you control quality.
  • Present your insurance broker's written statement when requesting fixes to insurance-blocking issues.
  • Items under $200 are not worth including. Fix them yourself after closing.

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Frequently Asked Questions

What are the most common seller repair requests after inspection?

The most common requests are electrical repairs (GFCI outlets, panel issues), roof repairs or credits, plumbing leak fixes, HVAC servicing or credits, and termite treatment. Safety-related items are the most frequently accepted by sellers because they carry disclosure obligations.

How many items should I ask the seller to fix?

Limit your request to 3-7 specific items, focusing on safety, structural, and insurance-related issues. Requests with fewer items have higher acceptance rates. A focused request with 5 well-documented items is more effective than a 20-item wish list that includes cosmetic complaints.

Can the seller refuse to fix anything after inspection?

Yes, the seller can legally refuse all repair requests. However, refusing to address safety issues means they must disclose those issues to future buyers, which weakens their position. If the seller refuses everything, your options are to accept the home as-is, negotiate a different concession (credit or price reduction), or exercise your inspection contingency to cancel the contract.

Should I ask for repairs or a credit after home inspection?

A credit is usually better for items over $500 because you control the quality and timing of repairs. For simple, verifiable fixes under $500 (installing GFCI outlets, adding smoke detectors), asking the seller to complete the repair is fine since the work is easy to verify at the final walkthrough.

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